Every instrument needs to have some TLC in order for it to
remain in the best working condition for optimum performance.
BASICS
First of all, make sure that your piccolo fits snugly inside
the case. The purpose of the case is to protect the instrument from the
elements and to keep the instrument from sliding around when the case is
shut. As time goes on, the blocking
inside the case (as well as the velvet lining) can become worn and compressed,
allowing the instrument to move. If you
can hear your piccolo bouncing around in its case once you have closed it, it
is time to look inside to see where the problems might be. Check to make sure
that the body of the piccolo cannot slide back and forth horizontally, and
also, that it cannot rotate forward or back. If your case is worn, you can get
some fabric remnants and test out the proper thickness to bolster the worn
spots. As a quick fix, even a cigarette
paper folded over several times might be the right thickness to prevent a bit
of movement. Severely worn case blocks can be replaced entirely or just
re-covered with new more plush velvet or fabric. Make sure that the case locks
are secure and remain locked when the case lid is shut. Another option is to replace an old case if
it is too worn for refurbishment: you can contact the manufacturer of your
piccolo and have them ship you a replacement case, or contact a case maker
directly. You should always keep your
case inside of a case cover in order to provide a back up if the case locks
accidentally open, and also to insulate the instrument further against harsh
temperature extremes. Speaking of temperature extremes, never leave your wooden
instrument inside your car: in warm climates the inside of a closed car on a
warm day soars to over 100 degrees in a few minutes. In cold areas, the reverse
is true. Protect your instruments from temperature extremes by keeping them
indoors as much as possible.
I keep my piccolo fully assembled at all times, storing it
in a ‘one piece’ case. This ensures that my alignment remains as consistent as
possible. It is wise to occasionally put on a bit of cork grease or plain,
unscented Chapstick onto the cork tenon for all instruments, especially one
that is not reassembled all the time. If you are playing a metal piccolo, there
is no need for cork grease (because there is no cork) but in this case, make
sure the tenon is free from all dust and debris by wiping it off occasionally
with a clean, dry cloth. Treat metal piccolo tenons exactly the same as you
would those on the flute: if they get a bit stiff or sticky feeling, use plain
alcohol to clean off both sides of the affected joint.
DAILY MAINTENANCE
It is important to swab out the piccolo often when we play:
for wooden instruments, it becomes even more critical. Swabbing prevents bubbles from forming
(excess moisture that acts as a seal which will prevent a key from opening or
closing…which causes wrong notes to sound…are called bubbles). Moisture can be drawn to the same pathways in
wood grain over and over as excess moisture builds up. The grain can become
‘eroded’ over time much like a river bed, if extreme amounts of water are allowed to build
up. This ‘erosion’ causes the water to
be attracted to the same places each time, which often results in bubbles in
the same spot over and over again.
The piccolo’s small conical bore also presents a
challenge: The player needs a swab that
works quickly, does not get stuck and of course, one that dries out the
instrument.
There are two kinds of swabs to discuss: those to be used
during a performance (the instrument will remain in one piece) and those to be
used when the headjoint is separated from the body, such as when returning the
piccolo to rest in a traditional two-piece case.
Swabs that can be used when the instrument is in one piece
include the piccolo flag style, and the traditional cleaning rod (with
extender) with a cloth swab attached. The
piccolo flag is a small rectangle of chamois material attached to a long
slender stick. The length of the swab,
if kept in one long piece, is often too long for storage in most piccolo cases,
so a threaded section in the middle affords a break apart option. This is an excellent swab to use: it really can’t get caught in the bore and
the chamois end is flexible enough to
get into the closed end of the headjoint.
The traditional cleaning rod is effective, but the bulk of the cloth can
sometimes impede the process of cleaning the instrument: I find using a slender
silk triangle is the best fabric and shape to use. Silk compresses beautifully, is lint free,
and absorbs very well. Both of these
swabs work well when the piccolo is taken apart in two pieces but there are
other choices to use when the instrument is disassembled: there are plush swabs
that will work beautifully to clean out the end of the headjoint near the cork,
but many of these will not work on a conical bore instrument when assembled. It
is important to dry this area out carefully after use. It is also a good idea
to remove moisture from the backwall or ‘blow hole ‘ of the headjoint: I use my
little finger to keep this area dry, or a cotton swab. If you have a whitish
buildup in this area, it is most likely dry residue that was not caught in the
preventable ‘wet’ stage. Your repair technician can help remove this for you.
I always wipe off the keys before I put my instrument away
for the day using a micro fiber cloth: it removes skin oils that could possibly
leach into delicate paper shims used for adjustments. If you play a metal
headjoint or entire metal instrument, wipe that down every day as well.
SEE YOUR REPAIR TECHNICIAN
A yearly COA is a ‘must do’ for your instrument: your technician
will clean, oil and adjust your instrument from top to bottom. He/she will
remove all the keywork, check for any pad adjustments that need to be made or
replaced, adjust spring tensions, make key to key adjustments, check the
headjoint cork, and check the wood body for any cracks. They will put new oil
in the rods and your instrument will feel good as new. If you are playing a
school instrument for the marching season, make sure the headjoint cork is
fitting correctly in the headjoint. Corks can often shrink if the instrument is
not played consistently, and this can cause intonation problems as well as
response issues. A tight fitting cork is a must! If you play piccolo infrequently, perhaps
this schedule can be every 18 months: if you play a lot, you may find yourself
needing adjustments more often. A complete overhaul can be considered necessary
after heavy use or many years depending on the player and the amount of piccolo
playing.
Keep up with Cindy Ellis -- Follow her online!
Website
http://www.cindyellisflute.com/
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Keep up with Cindy Ellis -- Follow her online!
Website
http://www.cindyellisflute.com/
Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/cindyellisflute
Twitter:
https://twitter.com/ellispiccindy
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